The "Unboosty" Kit for Thinkpads
for the X60, X60s, X60t, X61t, X61s, and X61t in particular
unboosty |
notes |
dim range |
~cost |
PWM-mode mod |
buck-down, 8-12V output
3 LED segments, 9.6V nominal |
9:1 |
$15-20 |
|
- Wide, customizable dimming range with continuous-drive mod
- Requires modification to work with Thinkpad brightness controls
- Narrow dimming range
- Brightness can flicker with load
|
This kit is based on the same DF6113 boost controller
IC [datasheet] as
the "Simpleboost" kit, but
arranged to use the inductor control as a low-side buck-down
converter(!) The driver board expects to drive a constant-current
LED string at between 8 and 12 volts such as the usual 9.6V
constant-current strips that can be trimmed in groups of three
LEDs. This board requires modification, such as the mod below, to
work properly with a Thinkpad.
Update and Warning: Oh well, it seemed like it worked
well enough. I've since gotten boards that flicker noticably with
the slightest shift in input voltage, eg with processor load,
regardless of the mod used. There's no correcting the problem no
matter how fancy the mod--- it's a consequence of lobotomizing a
boost controller to use it in buck mode.
Warning #2: As shipped, the boards I bought for evaluation were
configured to put out far too much current for the
12.1"/255mm LED strips included. Do not try to test this
kit without reading the modding page, or you'll probably damage
the LED strip!
Above: Schematic of stock, unmodified "Unboosty" LED
driver board
PWM-mode Mod
The PWM mod alters the driver board to use the Thinkpad's PWM
brightness signal as a direct backlight switching control. The PWM
frequency is 200Hz unless the OS changes it. If backlight
flicker bothers you, definitely use one of
my continuous-mode driver boards instead.
Above: Schematic of the Unboosty driver board modified for
PWM-mode operation with a Thinkpad. Red marks new or altered
components and connections, light gray shows removed
connections and components.
parts needed
- 1n4148 diode (SMD SOD-323 recommended, though through-hole works fine too)
- 2.2Ω resistor (SMD 1206 recommended)
- 3.0Ω resistor (SMD 1206 recommended)
- Low-profile 47µH or 68µH inductor, eg, Bourns SRR6028 [only if grafting onto a non-tablet inverter]
- A few centimeters of thin wire [if building a trimmed version]
Specific package recommendations above are known to fit, but feel
free to mix whatever surface mount or through-hole components seem
convenient. Resistor values should be 1% tolerance for best
results.
full-sized mod
Most Thinkpad modders want the trimmed version of the mod described
in the next section. This is a less complicated process that leaves
the original full-sized board in-tact for alternate uses.
- Remove C5 completely.
- Remove R3 completely.
- Replace the current sense resistors R4 and R7 with 2.2Ω
and 3.0Ω values. Alternately, a single 1.3Ω resistor is
a close substitution, but gives slightly lower output.
- Solder the cathode of a 1N4148 diode to the left hand pad of
the former R3; solder the anode to the lower exposed pad of the
former C5.
Above: LED driver board after PWM mod. Changes
from stock are circled in red.
After modding, the DIM input is now the board enable and the
ENA input is now a PWM-compatible brightness input (they're
mostly interchangeable really, but this arrangement is slightly
preferable). The board will put out approximately 320mA at max
brightness. Minimum brightness depends somewhat on PWM
frequency; the PWM signal switches the chip enable and the
converter has some turn-on lag. At the BIOS default of 60Hz,
min brightness is about 36mA average for an adjustment range of
9:1.
trimmed mod
If there's no space to stash the LED driver PCB somewhere in
the lid (or if you simply find adding the extra board
inelegant), the driver PCB can be trimmed to fit directly
onto a stock Thinkpad inverter board. The circuit is the same as
above, but we need to relocate some components.
- Begin by cutting along the indicated lines; diagonal cutters
will make a clean, easy cut. That's all the trimming necessary to
fit onto a tablet-model inverter, but if we're grafting this board onto
a non-tablet inverter, we'll also need to file down the top and
bottom edges by about a millimeter. It might also be necessary
to swap for a lower-profile inductor. See
the section about
dimensional restrictions on the inverter page.
Above: The full LED driver is too large to graft onto an
existing Thinkpad inverter. Cut the PCB board at the dotted
lines using diagonal cutters to make it small enough to
fit. Some of the components on the cut-off sections will need to
be relocated onto the remaining PCB.
The large orange 1µF tantalum input capacitor (C6), the
10µF ceramic output filter capacitor (C7), and 10Ω
input decoupling resistor (R1) that were cut off must all be
added back onto the remaining board section. Keep in mind the
the tantalum capacitor is polarized!
- Relocate output filter cap C7 to the remaining section of the
board. It should fit nicely between L1 and D1, if not, move L1 a
bit to the left. C7 is non-polarized; solder one side to the lower
pad of D1 and the side other to the upper pad of L1 using an additional
wire lead.
- Relocate the tantalum input cap C6 to the remaining section of
board; it will fit in the space to the left of Q1. In the picture
below it's mounted upside down for convenience. Use additional
wire leads to solder the + side to the lower pad of D1 and the
relocated C7 (the red wire in the picture below) and the - side of
the cap to ground, e.g. the lower pad of R4 (connected directly
via a solder bridge in the picture below).
- Rather than reusing R1, solder a through-hole resistor from
IC pin 1 to the + side of the relocated tantalum capacitor
C6. Any value between 10Ω and 200Ω is fine. The schematic
indicates 10Ω, I actually used 100Ω in the pictures.
- Solder one lead of a 4.7kΩ resistor to pin 4 of the IC; the
other lead becomes our DIM input.
- Solder the anode of a 1N4148 diode to pin 4 of the IC as
well. The cathode becomes our ENA input.
- Make a solder pad for the LED- connection by scraping the
conformal covering off the trace right under the 'D1' printing,
and tinning the exposed copper.
Above: Trimmed LED driver board with completed PWM mod
intended to be soldered onto a Thinkpad inverter. Mouse over
the image to highlight and label the connection points.
The trimmed driver PCB is ready to
be grafted onto an existing
Thinkpad backlight inverter.
[Index]
—Monty
(monty@xiph.org)
June 21, 2014