unboosty notes dim range ~cost
PWM-mode mod buck-down, 8-12V output
3 LED segments, 9.6V nominal
9:1 $15-20
  • Wide, customizable dimming range with continuous-drive mod
  • Requires modification to work with Thinkpad brightness controls
  • Narrow dimming range
  • Brightness can flicker with load

This kit is based on the same DF6113 boost controller IC [datasheet] as the "Simpleboost" kit, but arranged to use the inductor control as a low-side buck-down converter(!) The driver board expects to drive a constant-current LED string at between 8 and 12 volts such as the usual 9.6V constant-current strips that can be trimmed in groups of three LEDs. This board requires modification, such as the mod below, to work properly with a Thinkpad.

Update and Warning: Oh well, it seemed like it worked well enough. I've since gotten boards that flicker noticably with the slightest shift in input voltage, eg with processor load, regardless of the mod used. There's no correcting the problem no matter how fancy the mod--- it's a consequence of lobotomizing a boost controller to use it in buck mode.

Warning #2: As shipped, the boards I bought for evaluation were configured to put out far too much current for the 12.1"/255mm LED strips included. Do not try to test this kit without reading the modding page, or you'll probably damage the LED strip!

Above: Schematic of stock, unmodified "Unboosty" LED driver board


PWM-mode Mod

The PWM mod alters the driver board to use the Thinkpad's PWM brightness signal as a direct backlight switching control. The PWM frequency is 200Hz unless the OS changes it. If backlight flicker bothers you, definitely use one of my continuous-mode driver boards instead.

Above: Schematic of the Unboosty driver board modified for PWM-mode operation with a Thinkpad. Red marks new or altered components and connections, light gray shows removed connections and components.

parts needed

  1. 1n4148 diode (SMD SOD-323 recommended, though through-hole works fine too)
  2. 2.2Ω resistor (SMD 1206 recommended)
  3. 3.0Ω resistor (SMD 1206 recommended)
  4. Low-profile 47µH or 68µH inductor, eg, Bourns SRR6028 [only if grafting onto a non-tablet inverter]
  5. A few centimeters of thin wire [if building a trimmed version]

Specific package recommendations above are known to fit, but feel free to mix whatever surface mount or through-hole components seem convenient. Resistor values should be 1% tolerance for best results.

full-sized mod

Most Thinkpad modders want the trimmed version of the mod described in the next section. This is a less complicated process that leaves the original full-sized board in-tact for alternate uses.

  1. Remove C5 completely.
  2. Remove R3 completely.
  3. Replace the current sense resistors R4 and R7 with 2.2Ω and 3.0Ω values. Alternately, a single 1.3Ω resistor is a close substitution, but gives slightly lower output.
  4. Solder the cathode of a 1N4148 diode to the left hand pad of the former R3; solder the anode to the lower exposed pad of the former C5.

Above: LED driver board after PWM mod. Changes from stock are circled in red.

After modding, the DIM input is now the board enable and the ENA input is now a PWM-compatible brightness input (they're mostly interchangeable really, but this arrangement is slightly preferable). The board will put out approximately 320mA at max brightness. Minimum brightness depends somewhat on PWM frequency; the PWM signal switches the chip enable and the converter has some turn-on lag. At the BIOS default of 60Hz, min brightness is about 36mA average for an adjustment range of 9:1.

trimmed mod

If there's no space to stash the LED driver PCB somewhere in the lid (or if you simply find adding the extra board inelegant), the driver PCB can be trimmed to fit directly onto a stock Thinkpad inverter board. The circuit is the same as above, but we need to relocate some components.

  1. Begin by cutting along the indicated lines; diagonal cutters will make a clean, easy cut. That's all the trimming necessary to fit onto a tablet-model inverter, but if we're grafting this board onto a non-tablet inverter, we'll also need to file down the top and bottom edges by about a millimeter. It might also be necessary to swap for a lower-profile inductor. See the section about dimensional restrictions on the inverter page.

Above: The full LED driver is too large to graft onto an existing Thinkpad inverter. Cut the PCB board at the dotted lines using diagonal cutters to make it small enough to fit. Some of the components on the cut-off sections will need to be relocated onto the remaining PCB.

The large orange 1µF tantalum input capacitor (C6), the 10µF ceramic output filter capacitor (C7), and 10Ω input decoupling resistor (R1) that were cut off must all be added back onto the remaining board section. Keep in mind the the tantalum capacitor is polarized!

  1. Relocate output filter cap C7 to the remaining section of the board. It should fit nicely between L1 and D1, if not, move L1 a bit to the left. C7 is non-polarized; solder one side to the lower pad of D1 and the side other to the upper pad of L1 using an additional wire lead.
  2. Relocate the tantalum input cap C6 to the remaining section of board; it will fit in the space to the left of Q1. In the picture below it's mounted upside down for convenience. Use additional wire leads to solder the + side to the lower pad of D1 and the relocated C7 (the red wire in the picture below) and the - side of the cap to ground, e.g. the lower pad of R4 (connected directly via a solder bridge in the picture below).
  3. Rather than reusing R1, solder a through-hole resistor from IC pin 1 to the + side of the relocated tantalum capacitor C6. Any value between 10Ω and 200Ω is fine. The schematic indicates 10Ω, I actually used 100Ω in the pictures.
  4. Solder one lead of a 4.7kΩ resistor to pin 4 of the IC; the other lead becomes our DIM input.
  5. Solder the anode of a 1N4148 diode to pin 4 of the IC as well. The cathode becomes our ENA input.
  6. Make a solder pad for the LED- connection by scraping the conformal covering off the trace right under the 'D1' printing, and tinning the exposed copper.

Above: Trimmed LED driver board with completed PWM mod intended to be soldered onto a Thinkpad inverter. Mouse over the image to highlight and label the connection points.

The trimmed driver PCB is ready to be grafted onto an existing Thinkpad backlight inverter.


[Index]

—Monty (monty@xiph.org) June 21, 2014